08/06/2026
RIP Kilu. Everest Experts climbed with him in the 2018 Xia Boyu expedition. A Rolwaling legend from Beding.
For three decades, Kili Pemba Sherpa, known as Kilu, built an extraordinary legacy on the world’s highest mountains while guiding others toward remarkable achievements of their own.
His life was cut short in the Broad Peak avalanche on July 30, 2026, only 27 days after completing all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-metre mountains.
THREE DECADES IN THE MOUNTAINS
Kilu began expedition work on Manaslu in 1996 at the age of 16. He first summited Manaslu in 2002 and Mount Everest in 2003.
During his career, he summited Everest 15 times and K2 twice.
On July 3, 2026, Kilu reached the summit of Nanga Parbat, completing all fourteen of the world’s eight-thousanders.
He made the ascent with Wang Zhong and Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa during a rapid three-day push from the mountain’s lower camps to the summit.
PART OF MOUNTAINEERING HISTORY
On January 16, 2021, Kilu joined nine other Nepali climbers in completing the historic first winter ascent of K2.
K2 had been the only one of the world’s fourteen 8,000-metre mountains still unclimbed in winter. The team’s success became a landmark achievement in Nepal’s mountaineering history.
Later that year, Kilu worked with Mingma G to identify and establish a route to Manaslu’s true summit.
Their work addressed the long-standing practice of climbers stopping at the lower fore-summit instead of reaching the mountain’s highest point.
GUIDING OTHERS TO REMARKABLE SUMMITS
In 2018, Kilu guided Chinese climber and double amputee Xia Boyu to the summit of Everest after Xia’s decades-long pursuit of the mountain.
In 2021, he guided Russian double amputee Rustam Nabiev to the summit of Manaslu.
These climbs reflected the experience, patience and responsibility he brought to those who trusted him in some of the world’s most demanding environments.
From beginning expedition work at 16 to completing all fourteen eight-thousanders nearly three decades later, Kilu devoted his life to the mountains and the climbers he guided.
Rest in peace, Kili Pemba Sherpa. Your achievements, guidance and contribution to mountaineering will not be forgotten.
