14/10/2026
WHY DO VALENCIANS EAT TWO BREAKFASTS? THE WONDERFUL TRADITION OF ESMORZARET!
One of the things that fascinated me when I first moved to Valencia ten years ago was discovering that people here don’t necessarily consider breakfast a once-a-day affair. In Britain, you might grab some toast, a bowl of cereal or a bacon sandwich before heading off to work. But here in Valencia, they’ve taken the concept of breakfast to an entirely different level. Why settle for one breakfast when you can have two?
Welcome to the wonderful Valencian tradition of esmorzaret, also known as almuerzo, a mid-morning institution that involves enormous sandwiches, plates of olives and peanuts, drinks, coffee and, most importantly, plenty of time to sit around a table enjoying the company of friends.
Walk through almost any Valencian neighbourhood between nine and eleven in the morning and you’ll see the evidence. Terraces packed with workers, groups of friends, retired gentlemen discussing the state of the world and tables covered with food. And while much of Europe is settling down to its second cup of coffee, Valencians are tucking into sandwiches that could comfortably feed a small family.
A TRADITION BORN IN THE VALENCIAN COUNTRYSIDE
The origins of esmorzaret are generally traced back to the agricultural communities of Valencia’s famous huerta, the fertile farmland surrounding the city. Farm labourers would begin work early in the morning and, after several hours of physical labour, stop for a substantial meal to keep them going until lunchtime.
Many would bring their own bread and fillings from home, stopping at local bars to buy a drink and enjoy a little conversation. Over time, this simple agricultural tradition developed into something much more elaborate, eventually becoming part of everyday Valencian life.
And although most of us no longer spend our mornings working in the orange groves, the tradition has survived remarkably well. Today, you’ll find everyone from construction workers and office employees to families and groups of friends enjoying their mid-morning almuerzo.
SO, WHAT EXACTLY IS AN ESMORZARET?
First comes what’s known as el gasto, a little selection of olives, pickles, lupin beans and the famous Valencian cacaus del collaret, those delicious local peanuts that seem to disappear from the table almost immediately.
Then comes the main event, the bocadillo. And we’re not talking about a delicate little sandwich here. These are enormous crusty baguettes packed with ingredients such as grilled pork, sausages, bacon, fried eggs, tortilla, peppers, cheese and all sorts of other delicious combinations.
Among the classics are the chivito, usually filled with pork loin, bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, egg and mayonnaise, and the almussafes, a wonderful combination of sobrasada, melted cheese and caramelised onions. Every neighbourhood seems to have its favourite bar, and every bar has its own speciality.
The sandwich is traditionally accompanied by a drink, perhaps a b**r, w**e, soft drink or water. And to finish, many people enjoy a cremaet, a Valencian coffee prepared with rum, sugar, lemon peel and cinnamon, with the alcohol traditionally heated or flambéed before the coffee is added.
All this, remember, is happening at around ten o’clock in the morning!
BUT THE REAL INGREDIENT ISN’T THE FOOD
What I particularly love about esmorzaret is that it’s about much more than eating. It’s an excuse to stop working for a while, sit down with friends or colleagues and enjoy a little piece of the day without constantly looking at your watch.
In a world where so many people seem permanently rushed, eating sandwiches at their desks or grabbing something on the way to their next appointment, there’s something rather wonderful about a culture that still makes time for a leisurely mid-morning meal.
And perhaps that’s the real reason this tradition has survived for so long. The food is delicious, of course, but it’s the conversations, friendships and atmosphere that make it special.
Valencia has plenty of fashionable brunch restaurants these days, serving beautifully presented avocado toast and elaborate coffee creations. Nothing wrong with that, of course, but the Valencians have been enjoying their own version of brunch for generations, long before anyone thought of putting a poached egg on sourdough and charging €15 for it.
After ten years living here, I can confidently say that esmorzaret is one of my favourite Valencian traditions. It’s wonderfully unpretentious, extremely sociable and, as far as I’m concerned, an excellent excuse to eat an enormous sandwich before lunch.
And somehow, despite everything you’ve already eaten, you’ll probably still be expected to sit down for another substantial meal at two or three in the afternoon.
OVER TO YOU!
Do you enjoy a traditional Valencian almuerzo? What’s your favourite bocadillo, and more importantly, where do you think serves the best esmorzaret in Valencia?
I’d love to hear your recommendations. I’m always happy to discover another great neighbourhood bar, especially one that takes its sandwiches seriously!