06/10/2026
Wandered through Oppian Hill to the Coliseum passing by the ruins of Trajan’s baths. Met my guide and we started in the ruins of Palentine Hill. I was fortunate that the Senate building, which is the only complete building, was open today and saw the original flooring and some of the faded frescoes. The roof is so high and the acoustics are incredible. There are some great views over the whole complex from the hill, the architecture is incredible.
From there we went into the cells of the coliseum, visible from the seating area but not available to walk through without a special ticket. It’s incredible and sad to think that people and animals were kept in these tiny spaces until they were sent to their deaths. The gladiators lived in training grounds near the coliseum and were treated as celebrities but still had to fight to the death for years to win their freedom. The white marble seats are original and have the names of the senators carved into them and they have found marble seats that have pictures of the fighting carved by the people between bouts.
Popped into the Basilica of Saints Cosmos and Damian, there was a service going on so had to be discreet about taking snaps before heading up to The Altar of the Fatherland. Nicknamed the wedding cake due to its colour and tiers. It was completed after WW2.
Had delicious olive oil, chilli and parsley spaghetti for lunch washed down with a cheeky red, before exploring. Discovered a cute little patisserie and couldn’t resist choosing a selection of items,, should keep me going for the next few days.
Stopped in at the ice bar for a few cinnamon vodka shots and a cocktail, I think I lasted 20 minutes in my special coat before leaving.
Finally found a restaurant near me that offers apertivo, thought the focaccia was enough but then they bought out a second plate. I think I will have to head back there tomorrow.