Jamavar and Pashmina Shawls
The shawl weaving tradition in Kashmir dates back to the 11th and 12th centuries. It was during the reign of the Mughals that it became a ‘high fashion’ garment. The emperor Akbar is rumored to have owned hundreds of Kashmiri shawls. No other Indian textile has as wide-known international reputation as the Pashmina. Kashmiri Shawls
Pashmina shawls are woven from the woo
l of the rare Indian goat Changthangi or Pashmina. The hair collected from the fine ‘inner’ coat of this goat is woven into the cashmere wool. The fact that one goat sheds only 250 to 270 gm of wool in a year will give you an idea of the rarity of this material. Jamawar is actually an intricate form of weaving which involves the running of ‘shuttles’ or ‘kannis’ of different threads across the width of the shawl to create the design. While this might not sound very complicated, craftsmen could take up a whole day to weave an inch of the shawl. Because of the labour involved, traditionally only the two ends of the shawl sported any design. The designs of the Jamawar shawl were inspired by Persian motifs. Over a period of time, the ‘ambi’ or paisley pattern came to be inextricably linked with this shawl. Some of the conventional colours of the Jamawar shawl are yellow, white, black, turquoise, green, purple, crimson and scarlet. The modern cashmere or pashmina shawl comes in a range of colours and contemporary designs.