20/03/2026
Good Food advice for Visiting Florence.
You didn't come to Florence to eat a pizza. Here's what to actually order.
Pizza belongs to Naples. Carbonara belongs to Rome. Florence has its own food — completely different, completely unmissable — and most tourists walk right past it.
Here is what Florentines actually eat, broken down by moment of the day.
ON THE STREET (LUNCH)
Panino al lampredotto
This is the most Florentine thing you can eat, full stop. Lampredotto is the fourth stomach of the cow, slow-cooked for hours in broth with tomatoes, onion, and celery until it falls apart. It gets piled into a crusty roll, the top half of the bread is dipped into the hot broth, and it is finished with salsa verde and chilli sauce.
It costs €5. It comes from a street cart called a trippaio. You eat it standing up.
When you order, say: "Un panino con lampredotto, salsa verde e piccante."
If you are near Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, go to Trippaio del Porcellino. Near Sant'Ambrogio market, go to Sergio Pollini. These are the two most reliable carts in the city. Join the line. That line is the review.
Schiacciata
Not focaccia. Flatter, crispier, heavier on the olive oil. Florentines eat this instead of bread. Get it stuffed with Tuscan salami or prosciutto and pecorino at any forno in the city. It is a lunch, not a snack.
AT A TRATTORIA (STARTERS)
Crostini neri
Toasted bread topped with smooth chicken liver pâté, sometimes sharpened with a touch of anchovy or capers. It arrives before the pasta and it disappears fast. This is how every serious Florentine meal begins.
Coccoli con prosciutto e stracchino
Fried dough balls, hot and soft inside, served with prosciutto and creamy stracchino cheese. Order one portion between two people. You will wish you had ordered two.
FIRST COURSES
Ribollita
A thick soup of cannellini beans, cavolo nero, and stale bread, cooked low and slow until the bread completely dissolves into the base. The name means "reboiled" — it was made in batches and reheated, which deepens the flavor. Order it if it is on the board. It is a winter dish but good trattorias make it year round.
Pappa al pomodoro
Old bread broken down into tomatoes with garlic, basil, and olive oil. It sounds too simple. It is not. When it is made correctly it is one of the best things on any menu in the city.
Pappardelle al cinghiale
Wide flat pasta with slow-cooked wild boar ragù. The sauce cooks for hours in red wine and herbs until the meat is completely soft. It is heavier than anything you will find in Rome or Milan. That is the point.
MAIN COURSES
Bistecca alla Fiorentina
A T-bone cut from Chianina cattle, a Tuscan breed, grilled over wood at high heat — three to four minutes per side — and served rare. Not medium rare. Rare. If you ask for it more cooked, the kitchen will refuse and they are right to.
It is sold by weight. Expect to pay between €40 and €65 per kilogram depending on the restaurant and the cut. A proper Chianina bistecca runs higher. One kilogram feeds two people. Order it shared.
Do not ask for sauce. Do not ask for ketchup. A drizzle of Tuscan olive oil and coarse salt is all it needs.
Red flag: any restaurant advertising a bistecca, side dish, and wine for €30 combined is not serving a real Fiorentina. Walk away.
DESSERT AND DRINKS
Cantucci e Vin Santo
Twice-baked almond biscuits, hard and dry, served with a small glass of Vin Santo, a sweet amber dessert wine. You dip the biscotti into the wine until they soften. This is how Florentines end a meal. Not a tiramisu. Not a panna cotta. This.
ONE RULE THAT COVERS EVERYTHING
If you are in Florence and the menu has pizza, spaghetti Bolognese, and carbonara, you are in the wrong restaurant. No trattoria serving real Florentine food needs to cover every region of Italy.
Walk two streets away. Find the place where the menu changes with the season and nobody outside is trying to pull you in. That is where Florence eats.