16/06/2026
On this day, 9 June 1957, four Austrian climbers made history on Broad Peak (8,047 m) in Pakistan's Karakoram. Led by Marcus Schmuck, the team of Hermann Buhl, Fritz Wintersteller, and Kurt Diemberger achieved the first ascent of the mountain without using supplementary oxygen, high-altitude porters, or fixed camps.
Their expedition was revolutionary for that time. Rejecting the large siege-style tactics common on 8000-meter peaks, the four climbers carried their own loads and climbed in lightweight alpine style. After an earlier attempt reached only the forepeak, they returned on June 9 and all four stood on the true summit, becoming the first team to place every member atop an eight-thousander.
Just 18 days later, tragedy struck. While attempting the unclimbed Chogolisa (7,654 m) with Kurt Diemberger, Hermann Buhl fell through a collapsing cornice high on the mountain and disappeared into the mists of karakoram forever. His body was never found. He was only 32 years old.
Photo ©: Kurt Diemberger Collection.
